Newfoundland #4: Twillingate, Iceberg Alley

I arrived in Twillingate, pitch black, no street lights and parked up to spend the rest of the night sleeping in the car.  It was surprisingly comfy, I have to say.  The main problem was the cold.  I didnt get much sleep as I kept waking up cold and having to put the engine on again until it warmed up.  I opened my eyes at 4.44am.  There was water a metre in front of where I parked, a lovely view.  Time for a drive around.  There were many many B&Bs with vacancy signs that I could not see in the dark last night.  I parked at a trail sight near French Beach and went for an hour and a half hike while the sun finished rising.  I saw iceberg number 4 and then many more on the horizon.  The view from the top of the coastal trail I was on was gorgeous and the village below was lovely in the early morning light. 



7am and still no places open.  I found a harbour office building that had public showers and had a shower and brushed my teeth.  Drove around a bit more looking for anything to open, until I saw signs of life at a B&B.  They let me have breakfast, and after hearing I slept in the car, wouldnt accept any money.  So lovely of them! 

The reason for coming to Twillingate was to visit Iceberg Alley on a boat trip.  I went with Iceberg Quest on the 930 trip.  There were three of us on the boat, plus two staff so it was nice and spacious.  The icebergs were incredible.  Huge and beautiful shades of blue. There were blue lines running through the icebergs where the oxygen levels were different.  The biggest one we saw was about 300 feet by 100 high above the water.  Huge with an ice cave in it.  I googled the size of the one Titanic hit and it was 200-400ft x 50-100 high.  90% of the iceberg is underwater.  Craziness.  The water splashed up again the icebergs, we saw seals swimming and sea birds overhead.  The water was really choppy and we stumbled around on the top deck like silly drunk passengers!  It was fantastic.  One of the guys that works there fished a piece of ice out of the water for us to hold and take a bite of. The trip was incredible.  There were so many icebergs, up close and all along the horizon.



I went to see Long Point Lighthouse in Twillingate whilst there. The sign was prettier than the lighthouse, but the great views showcased the icebergs again.  By 12.30, I was hungry and there were still no signs of life at the cafes or variety stores, so I left the sleepy village and drove south.  I missed lots of amazing causeways and sea views in my dark drive up and got to see them in the sunshine.  I had driven through a complex network of islands and connections to get there.  Still no pubs or restaurants on the road.  A guy I asked said not far and head for Lewisport.  Not far?  Not far?  It was 70km.  I found a hotel restaurant in Lewisporte and finally got to sit and eat food.  Lasagne.  Beautiful.  I was the only person in there which was a bit weird as it was a big restaurant.  It was 3pm though.


I booked a hotel and headed for Clarenville.  Sauna, swim, bath and an amazing nights sleep in a super comfy bed.  Chocolates and toiletries in my room.  Woke up so happy and cosy this morning.  

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